Powder Brows with Kim Zen

(A version of this article first appeared in the industry publication, Les Nouvelles Esthetique)

For those looking for a soft, natural eyebrow look that will last, powder brows are an ideal choice. A bit softer than microbladed brows, their blurred, or diffused, edges give the brow a powdered-in, makeup-like effect that is perfect for everyday wear. After more than twenty years in the beauty industry, and extensive experience working as a medical esthetician and permanent makeup artist, I now train students in my re-engineered powder brow technique. Minimally invasive and time effective, it is a procedure I would highly recommend to anyone looking to enhance their natural eyebrow shape and color. Read on to learn more about my process, what it entails, and why powder brows are an excellent choice for people who desire a long-lasting permanent eyebrow makeup solution.

Two important elements of my powder brow technique that I would like to highlight are the needles I use and the blending of my pigments. Together, these two things allow me to carefully control my shading in order to achieve a result that is tailored to each individual. Every person has their own unique hair color and eyebrow makeup preference, so usually one pigment alone will not result in a perfect match. By mixing several different pigments together, I have found that you can achieve a look that is much more natural and realistic. With what is referred to in the industry as “machine shading,” I use a combination of different needles to create a pixellated shadow that is characteristic of powder makeup. The resulting shadow adds a slight depth to the eyebrow without the harshness of hard, bold lines. Essentially, the combination of needles plus the use of custom-blended pigments are what make this realistic look achievable.

From start to finish, the complete powder brow service lasts about two hours. I begin the procedure by measuring the brows and mapping out a shape that is flattering to my client’s face. I use a selection of measurement tools to make this process simpler and more precise, such as ratio calipers and adhesive eyebrow rulers. When working out the perfect eyebrow shape, precision is essential. After this is done, I always check in to see if there are any adjustments that need to be made. Moving on from the brow mapping process, I then begin to blend my pigments in order to create a shade that suits my client’s needs. The majority of people who come in for this service desire a color that matches their makeup powder or pencil, which usually ends up being a bit lighter than their natural hair color. Of course, if the client would like something darker, this can be achieved. Once my pigments are blended and the final color has been agreed upon, I then set up my needles and begin to shade in the eyebrows. Depending on the hair type of my client, I work in a gradient that compliments the existing brow. It is my goal to add dimension to the eyebrow, while still maintaining a softness that flatters the face. It should be noted that pigment is not implanted in the dermal layer, but in the basal layer of the epidermis. Because of this, there is less trauma to the skin and I am able to maintain greater control over the pigment deposits. A topical numbing agent is used, but the process itself is relatively painless for most people. Overall, it takes about an hour to fully shade in both eyebrows, and once I have finished, I always check back with my client to make sure they are happy with the results and to see if they would like any adjustments. When this is done, the powder brow application is complete and the healing process can begin. 

Newly machine-shaded eyebrows will shed for around seven to ten days after the powder brow treatment, and this is completely normal. When it comes to aftercare, I recommend that my clients keep the eyebrow area clean and moisturized, with as little contact with water as possible until the shedding process is over. As far as topical treatments go, I like to send my clients home with a natural aftercare product. These products typically contain ingredients that are soothing to skin such as shea butter and coconut oil. It is important to stress that clients do not use petrolatum-based products like Vaseline, or antibiotic ointments like Neosporin. Of course, showering and washing your face are both necessary practices, and a small amount of water will not negatively effect the healing process. It is important to express to your clients that the color of the brows will fade in time, and are at their darkest the first week after the initial application. Once the shedding process has finished, it takes roughly four to six weeks for the pigment to fully settle. In this time, clients should notice that their eyebrows have slightly lightened in color, but maintain a powdery, filled in look. I have found this time frame to be incredibly consistent among the majority of individuals who receive my powder brow treatment, and I always like to stress the longevity of the procedure. Powder brow clients typically do not need to return for a touch up until at least eight to twelve weeks after their first session - although this time frame depends on pigment retention, how much pigment was used, and how each individual body responds to the healing process.

I currently take permanent makeup clients and teach students here at my state-of-the-art facility, Zen Derma Studios, in San Diego, California. I offer group and one-on-one permanent makeup trainings for people who would like to learn how to provide this service or incorporate it into their business. Students originally considering a microblading training often opt for a powder brow course instead because of the versatility. Each student receives a certification of completion at the end of the course, which demonstrates that they are working to remain up to date with the trends and techniques of the field. In addition to powder brow training, I also provide a variety of different classes for people who work in other areas of esthetics. We often host industry professionals to teach classes on treatments ranging from lash services to other forms of permanent makeup. Class sizes are small and intimate to ensure an attentive learning environment and optimal hands on experience. To learn more about me and my practice, contact Zen Derma Studios today.